Degradation and whitening of black plastic parts is not beautiful.!!Then revive and regenerate with resin black. | News

The rear fender, the chain case, and the exterior parts of the moped scooter, which are not painted, but finished in black resin color, areDue to deterioration over timeNot black resin colorIn addition to the above, it will turn into a whitened, blurred, and unattractive appearance.Things. Here, molded in black resin partsCosmetic repair of meter caseLet’s try to

Resin black to reproduce the beauty of the product

This resin black spray from Daytona will give you an atmosphere similar to black resin parts. Before painting, thoroughly remove all dirt and oil from the surface of the parts. Use a parts cleaner or gasoline to break down and clean the oil, then wash thoroughly with a neutral detergent and foam sponge, and rinse off with lukewarm water to complete the surface preparation. With this kind of pre-treatment, you can expect high adhesion of paint.

Ideal for finishing parts such as chain cases

Many rear fenders, inner fenders, and drive chain cases, including modern models as well as older cars, have parts made of ABS resin or PP resin. The adhesion of resin black spray will be improved by thoroughly removing oil sludge stains and also degreasing and washing the parts to remove oil (you can also lightly warm the parts by searing them with an industrial heater before spraying). As the name suggests, Daytona’s Resin Black is a recommended product for finishing resin parts.

When disassembling the meter case, do not break the knob!!

In the early 80’s, there were many models that had the meter laid out in an integrated housing case instead of a single meter design. This bike is a 1981 Suzuki RG250E, and although the design was changed by incorporating the old model’s single meter inside the case, it was still regarded as a fresh design. There are two ways to remove the trip meter knob, one is by turning the knob while pushing it towards the meter in the axial direction, and the other is by tightening the knob with screws. This model was removed by turning the knob in the clockwise direction while pushing it in the axial direction.

Disassemble the meter housing like a plastic model

Since the meter panel is fixed with countersunk screws, remove all countersunk screws and then lift the panel out of the case body so as not to break it. Be careful not to break the panel frame. Inside the meter housing was a standard independent meter. The early model Yamaha RZ250 of the same era also had this type of design. Remove the cable and fixing screws, and pull out both meters. The meter body is fixed to a bracket made of pressed steel plate parts. By removing this bracket from the top bridge, the plastic housing can be separated from the bracket.

Pretreatment before painting is paramount.!!

Acetone, which is also used in the production of FRP parts, was soaked into a rag, and the dirty meter body was wiped clean. After removing dirt and degreasing with acetone, water proof polishing was done with water proof paper of No.600. Scratches and rusty burrs were scraped off with water-resistant paper. There were some paint repair marks in the past, and when I wiped them off with an acetone rag, the old paint came to adhere to them.

Mama Lemon with many believers + lukewarm water wash

Once you have finished adding the water-resistant paper, wash your hands thoroughly with Mama Lemon, a neutral detergent. This is because the dirt from your hands may stick to the meter case again. Then use a dishwashing sponge with Mama Lemon to create a lather, and rinse the entire case thoroughly. After rinsing off the foam and slime with lukewarm water, use an industrial heater to dry the meter completely. Be careful not to heat it up too much, as it will deform the plastic parts. Once the entire case has been warmed up and the water has been removed, it’s time to start spraying the paint.

The key is to apply a thin, thin layer of paint.

After the water is blown off and the meter case is warmed up, the heater is turned off and the paint finish is applied in thin, thin layers. The previous spray bottle had a black label, but the current product has been changed to a red label. It is a relatively quick drying paint, but if you apply it all at once, it will cause unevenness and sagging, so try to apply it in thin layers and gradually build up the film thickness.

Be careful when restoring parts.

When restoring the indicator lights on the meter, plug in the key and turn it on, then restore the bulb position while checking where the lights come on. The indicator lights are on both sides, so be careful not to connect them in reverse. Also, when disassembling the meter, I noticed that the meter itself was rattling. Even after replacing the mounting rubber with a new one, the meter was still shaking its head up and down, so I decided to add my own damper parts made from cut urethane rubber. There are many causes of meter failure, but rattling or hardened dampers are the most common causes. If you think something is wrong, try to do your best with your own idea.

Based on the domestic model 2 of Suzuki RG250E that was introduced as a model in 1981, I finished up the “X7 250” with the blue metallic color and decals for the export model of the British export specification. since it was introduced after the RZ250 was released, it was not a popular model at that time, but now when I see it like this It is unique and cool. The plated chamber is a slip-on type made by Zensin Engineering. The chamber is a slip-on type made by Zensin Engineering, which allows for both increased power and use of the main stand.

The material color of the resin = The quickest way to beautify the surface condition of black resin parts finished in paintless is to paint them with a special paint. It can also hide gouges and small scratches. If the part is in relatively good condition and has a low gloss finish, Daytona’s resin black spray can be used. This will form a film of resin gloss on the surface of the part, bringing back the distinctive shine to a resin surface that has lost its shine.

The meter housing that we were working on here had many scratches on it and was not in a beautiful condition. After disassembling the meter, the housing was cleaned and degreased. We then used water resistant paper to clean up the scratches before painting. Although there were no big scratches or scraps, it would be better to repair such scratches by plastic repair and to adjust the surface shape after repairing the scratches by plastic repair.

For finishing paint, we recommend “Resin Black” from Daytona. This product has a primer component, and the main feature of this product is “high adhesion” even when painted on resin parts. The finished texture is not glossy, but semi-glossy, which is unique to resin parts, and it is also nice that the paint film is finished with a grainy texture (like a very fine pimple). Immediately, we started the work. We cleaned and degreased the removed parts thoroughly. When doing this kind of work, it’s best to scrub away like you would wash dishes with Mama Lemon and a sponge. Even when washing off foam stains, it is best to use hot or lukewarm water instead of tap water or cold water. In addition, the degreasing effect can be further enhanced by warming the surface with a handy heater=industrial heater when drying after washing and just before painting.

The best way to spray is to shake the can thoroughly after heating it with hot water, spray thinly with the nozzle away from the paint and let it dry, rather than spraying and painting all at once, and repeat this procedure while applying layers of paint. If you have a temperature-controlled dryer (such as CV Junior by Kerbeck), you can dry the paint at 40-50 degrees Celsius for about 30 minutes, which will allow you to restore the paint immediately even in cold weather, and the paint hardness will be higher than natural drying.